Q) What is cold air intake system?
A) A cold air intake is an aftermarket assembly of parts used to bring relatively cool air into a car's internal-combustion engine. Aftermarket cold air intake systems are maximizing performance and efficiency of engine. Huge, high-flow conical air filters are the first step to increased airflow to the engine. Steel heat shields or molded plastic air boxes keep hot air out and fresh, cold air flowing to the filter. Velocity stacks and precision-designed intake tubes provide smooth, uninterrupted airflow to the turbo or throttle body.

Q) What is universal racing filters?
A) Universal racing filters, designed to provide performance and protection. Most sizes come in your choice of two medias designed to meet your specific needs. Dry synthetic air filters and oiled synthetic air filters. These filters provide 50 percent more airflow for better performance, increasing horsepower and torque. They come available for many applications.

Q) What is throttle body spacer?
A) A throttle body spacer is usually a thick piece of metal that is bolted to the back of the throttle body downstream of air flow into the manifold. By changing the airflow, can increase the engine's horse power, torque and fuel economy. It functions by swirling or directing the air flow to maximize air volume to the manifold.

Q) What is low temperature racing thermostat?
A) Racing thermostats promote greater cooling efficiency by significantly decreasing high engine temperatures resulting from modified and upgraded turbo applications. Once the engine is fully warmed up, the low-temperature racing thermostat will open at a lower temperature than standard thermostats. This allows the coolant to flow through the engine sooner, thus reducing and maintaining cooler engine temperatures. 

Q) What is electric exhaust cutout?
A) These electrically controlled exhaust valves bolt to standard cutouts and can be opened and closed from inside of the car with the flip of a switch. Using the convenient interior-mounted switch, you can go from stealth quiet to wide-open power.

Q) Which is louder the Ultra Flo or the Super Turbo muffler?
 The Ultra Flo is a straight through internal design and will have a deep throaty tone; while the Super Turbo has a 3 tubed internal design and will have a deep mellower tone that is quieter than the Ultra Flo. 

Q) Does a cat back kit include the converter?
 No. A cat back kit is any or all of the components behind the factory converter. 

Q) Can a Dynomax Bullet Race muffler be used as a resonator?
 Yes. The Bullet Race muffler works very well as a resonator as it will not restrict the flow, but will slightly lower the dB of the system. 

Q) What is a mandrel bent pipe?
 A mandrel bent pipe is a smooth pipe without any serrations, for a higher flowing system 

Q) Can I remove my converter for a higher performance system?
 For street applications it is against the law to remove or alter a converter. 

Q) How do the DynoMax VT™ mufflers eliminate drone?
 DynoMax VT - "Valve Technology" - mufflers feature an exclusive, precisely calibrated internal valve that redirects exhaust flow during cruising conditions to provide Drone-Free Performance™. 

Q) How will the DynoMax VT™ mufflers perform and sound when I hit the gas?
 When you hammer the gas, the valve automatically opens for maximum exhaust flow, delivering on-demand performance and a deep, throaty drone-free sound. 

Q) How long will the internal valve spring last?
 The valve spring is constructed from a corrosion and heat resistant super alloy that is guaranteed to last the life of your vehicle. The high temperature properties of this material have exceeded extreme environmental testing with over 2,000,000 cycles. 

Q) Do DynoMax VT™ mufflers have a chambered or straight-through design?
 DynoMax VT™ mufflers feature a straight-through design that maximizes flow and power. 

Q) What is correct DynoMax VT™ muffler for my vehicle?
 DynoMax VT™ mufflers are a universal muffler that can be installed on most vehicles.

Q) Are DynoMax VT™ mufflers reversible?
 No, the inlet side of the muffler is clearly marked in the body of the muffler. 

Q) Are DynoMax VT™ mufflers stainless steel?
 Yes, DynoMax VT™ mufflers are constructed from 409 stainless steel. 

Q) What is a Turbo Sound Tip?
A) The pressure blowing out of your exhaust creates a spooling sound with this product installed. This sound is similar to how a real turbo works. In some cases, during shifts - back pressure is drawn through the unit creating a type of sound similar to a blow off valve; the results will vary depending on your car.

Q) Will Turbo Sound Tip fit on any exhaust?
A) The unit will mount on most exhaust systems. Remember, if you have TWO exhaust tips, you can install TWO if you want maximum sound output.

Q) How do I clean my air filter?
A) Before you start to clean the filter, determine whether you have an oiled or oil-free filter.1) Use a soft bristle brush like a paint brush to remove large chunks of debris and dirt from between the pleats. GENTLY TAPPING the filter on the ground to remove any loose dirt being careful not to bend any of the pleats. 2) Spray the cleaning solution that comes in our Restore Kit, on the dirty side of the filter. Let the cleaning solution soak in for about 10 minutes. 3) Rinse the filter from the clean side of the filter to the dirty side. Repeat spraying and rinsing until the water is clear. Since media will be stained, it will not be completely white and may still appear dirty. 4) DO NOT USE A HIGH PRESSURE WATER NOZZLE when rinsing the filter. 5) Let the filter air-dry. DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR TO DRY THE FILTER! It may take a couple of hours for a dry filter to 12 to 24 hours for an oiled filter depending on humidity and temperature. 6) If you have an oil-free filter, the cleaning process is completed and the rest of these instructions can be disregarded. 7) After the filter is dry, apply small amount of oil on the top of each pleat. It is not necessary to apply oil down in between the pleats. It is also a good idea to not apply oil all the way to the urethane. Leave about an inch of media un-colored. DO NOT DROWN THE FILTER WITH OIL! The oil will wick out a great deal. 8) Leave the oiled filter for 8 to 12 hours to allow the oil to fully wick. Finally, spot apply oil to areas that still do not have "color" to it.

Q) What makes the DRYFLOW filter better than oiled cotton-gauze filters?
A) DRYFLOW filters have several features that make them better than cotton-gauze. Typical DRYFLOW air filters have a better filtering efficiency than cotton-gauze filters.  Also the cleaning process doesn't include oil for DRYFLOW air filters.  This removes the mess and question of how much oil to put on the filter.

Q) What is the DRYFLOW filter made of?
A) The DRYFLOW filter is made from a single-layer of pre-pleated polyester synthetic filter media with a nylon-reinforced internal cage for added structural rigidity.

Q) How long will a DRYFLOW filter last?
A) If you clean and maintain your DRYFLOW filter, it will last for the life of your vehicle.

Q) How often should I clean the DRYFLOW filter?
A) Frequency of cleaning for your DRYFLOW filter will depend on the conditions in which you drive. As a rule, we recommend that you clean your filter a minimum of every 30,000 miles, inspect it during oil changes and regular service intervals, and clean it if it appears to be reaching its dust holding capacity. If you live in particularly arid, dusty climates or venture off road, we recommend cleaning the filter every 3,000-5,000 miles.

Q) Is it necessary to oil my DRYFLOW filter?
A) NO! The DRYFLOW filter NEVER requires filter oil to trap dirt. It typically filters at a higher efficiency than oiled filters and blocks harmful dirt particles.

Q) Will frequent cleanings affect the DRYFLOW filter's longevity?
A) No. The DRYFLOW filter’s polyester synthetic media can endure repeated cleanings without significantly degrading the media’s filtration capabilities. If you clean and maintain it properly it will last for the life of your vehicle.

Q) After installing a larger (or secondary) fuel pump for my EFI engine, the fuel rail pressure went up and my regulator won’t adjust it back down, what’s wrong?
A) To understand this problem, it’s necessary to know that a fuel pump does not “put out” fuel pressure, it “puts out” fuel flow. A bypass regulator, correctly matched for a given flow volume, sets up a controlled restriction of this flow, thereby creating and then managing fuel pressure. If the regulator won’t adjust pressure down, verify it is large enough for the pump in use. Also, check the return line for kinks or obstructions and make sure the line size is adequate for it’s length and the flow it must handle going back to the tank. Remember, at low load (idle and cruise), the regulator and return line together must flow over 99% of the pumps volume. If the return line or the regulator, or both, are too small for the pump, the resulting fuel pressure is considered false-high. This means pressure is out of the regulator’s control and will drop to the actual regulator set point as the engine goes under load (WOT). A test for correct regulator and return line selection and function is to confirm pressure will adjust at least 5 psi lower than the desired base pressure, vacuum line disconnected.
Q) Fuel is coming out of the vacuum/boost port on my regulator, why?
A) This type of leak indicates the diaphragm has either been ruptured or delaminated (lost it’s coating) and fuel is passing through it. Regulator diaphragms may be damaged by extreme pressures, chemical breakdown, or both. In some cases the regulator may be repaired, in others it will have to be replaced with a new model.

Q) I’m trying to plumb my stand-alone EFI regulator properly, where do I put the regulator, before or after the fuel rail(s), and what ports do I use?
A) Unlike a standard or “dead-head” carb regulator, which controls pressure between itself and the carburetor inlet, a bypass regulator creates and controls pressure between itself and the pump. Therefore, the correct EFI regulator location is after the fuel rail(s) whenever possible, promoting the required fuel pressure, flow volume and velocity through the fuel rail and to the injector inlet, at all times. Most EFI regulators have two inlet ports, one on each side, and one bypass port, on the bottom. Either inlet may be used with a single fuel rail engine, both inlets with a dual fuel rail. Any unused inlet ports must be blocked with the appropriate port plug. The ideal flow-path is: out of the fuel pump, into one end of the rail; out the other end of the rail, into the regulator side port(s); out the regulator bottom port, back to the tank at the top. Dual rail applications should employ a Y-block to split the supply line before entering the rails, then individual lines are run from the opposite end of each rail to each inlet port on the regulator.

Q) I want to connect a wet nitrous kit to my EFI engine; can I use the fuel pressure port on my regulator to supply the nitrous/fuel solenoid?
A) Normally, this is not recommended. The gauge port on most regulators is designed as a passage for sampling regulated pressure, and may not support adequate, regulated fuel flow. The typical bypass EFI fuel system can be tapped anywhere between the fuel pump outlet and regulator inlet. For best fuel pressure control to the nitrous fuel solenoid, connect the nitrous fuel supply line by inserting a “T” fitting to one of the fuel lines coming out of the fuel rail, before it connects to the regulator. This “T” fitting should be placed as close to the regulator inlet port as possible. With higher HP nitrous systems, consider a dedicated nitrous fuel system to provide the fuel flow and pressure control desired for best, safe nitrous system performance.

Q) Will Auto Meter gauges fit in my stock dash in place of the OEM instruments? 
A) Auto Meter instruments are not designed to be exact replacements for original gauges, they are intended to improve a stock dash. The custom car or truck builder may be able to mount some instruments directly into the dash, however they will most likely need to modify or build a completely new dashboard.

Q) What makes Iridium better?
Until recently, platinum was considered the best material to use on the top of an electrode because of its durability. However, Iridium is 6 times harder, 8 times stronger, and has a melting point 1200 degrees higher than platinum. Put that into a harsh environment such as an engine piston chamber, and you have a spark plug that can resist wear much better than platinum.

Q) How long will Iridium Last?
Iridium use represents the most significant technological advance in automotive spark plug manufacturing, since platinum was introduced in the early eighties. As vehicle manufacturers produce increasingly complex and efficient automobiles, there is a greater need for long-life plugs that can tolerate leaner fuel mixtures and improved combustion processes. DENSO has responded to this need by developing its Iridium alloy, originally for OE applications. For example, many newer Lexus’ and Toyota models carry an ultra long-life Iridium plug variation (.7mm with platinum tipped ground) that is capable of up to 120,000 miles of service. DENSO Iridium Power plugs, with their .4mm center electrode, have been developed for performance applications. Because gradual wear will “round-off” firing points over time, the concentrated firing power and voltage requirement benefits will be reduced. For this reason, DENSO advises replacement after 30,000 miles.

Q) Why is the U-Groove special?
The patented U-Groove allows the flame kernel to fill the gap formed by the U. This ball of fire develops a larger and hotter flash front a complete combustion. The flat ground electrode design of ordinary spark plugs crush the spark, inhibiting its growth; this effect is known as a “quenching effect.” The simple, but efficient, U-Groove feature results in better fuel efficiency, improved throttle response, and greater firing energy.

Q) Do I need to set the gap?
Generally, no. The DENSO Iridium Power plug comes pre-set with a protective sleeve over the firing end, to protect the gap from accidental alteration. DENSO Iridium Power’s ultra-efficient firing power compensates for normally recommended gap settings that are smaller than the pre-set value. In the cases of vehicle modifications (nitrous, turbo-chargers, super-chargers, high power ignition systems, etc.), some adjustments may be desired. Or, if you prefer to remain consistent with factory specifications, you may adjust. However, please be careful not to place any stress on the fine center electrode during adjustment. You could accidentally break off the very hard, and therefore brittle, tip.

Q) What kind of performance will I get from this plug?
Generally, you do not purchase spark plugs for performance enhancement. While DENSO Iridium Power spark plugs have contributed to numerous accomplishments through dyno-testing and actual use, their true benefit lies in their efficiency, durability, and improved firing power. Serious tuners modify their vehicles by increasing boost through turbo-chargers, super-chargers, and Nitrous. They are also known to add high-energy ignition systems, tinker with timing, adjust fuel mixture ratios, and increase horsepower through other means. Putting these kinds of demands on their engine increases the need for an efficient, durable spark plug that can handle these kinds of harsh environments. That’s where DENSO Iridium Power can make a major difference.

Q) What kind of testing has been done?
Iridium Power has been tested in many arenas. The most common area of testing has been on the track. There are currently many people using the plugs in import drag racing, with results being quite favorable. Some racers have seen E.T.’s decrease by a tenth and less fuel consumption during a pass. Circle track racers using the plugs notice better acceleration coming out of corners and more consistent idling. The other areas where the plugs have been tested are on good old dynos. The results have indicated horsepower increases over stock plugs of 2-3 Hp in a naturally aspirated engine and 27 Hp in a supercharged/turbocharged engine as seen in the January 2003 issue of 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords magazine*.

Q) How do I gap Iridium plugs
Before attempting to gap any Iridium spark plug, please review the specification chart to see the factory-preset gap. In most cases your Iridium Power plugs do not need to be gapped. Even with small variations in the factory set gap the ultra-efficient firing power design will compensate for those small variations. Should you decide to re-gap your Iridium Power plug, use extreme caution as improper gapping may damage or destroy the Iridium center electrode or porcelain center. To increase the gap size: Step 1 Use needle nose pliers or spark plug gapping tool to bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN. Step 2 Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool. To decrease the gap size: Step 1 Use the same method as above, however bend the ground strap down to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN. Step 2 Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool. WARNING: Failure to follow these directions may permanently damage the spark plug. Note: Never use a round gapping tool to check the gap or to increase or decrease the gap setting.

Q) How often should I replace my spark plugs?
A) Unfortunately there is no single answer to this question. As spark plugs grow older, they lose their sharp edges as material from the center and ground electrodes is slowly eroded away. As the gap between these two points grows, the voltage required to bridge the gap increases proportionately. Even the best ignition systems will be strained to supply enough voltage to completely burn the fuel. It is at this point, when fuel is being left unburned, that the time has come to change spark plugs.
Replacing worn out spark plugs with new ones (with sharp new edges) effectively restores the ignition system's efficiency. Misfires are reduced, power is restored, economy of operation is enhanced and emissions are reduced.
The best guide is the manufacturer's recommendation for your vehicle, as this particular service varies from brand to brand and model to model. In the absence of this information or in conjunction with it, you can rely on the advice of a mechanic who is familiar with your type of vehicle. In the best of all worlds, this would be a mechanic who is also familiar with the vehicle you own. If you find a good mechanic, whether dealer or independent, stick with him. The better he knows your personal vehicle, the better he will be able to diagnose and service it. The end result is very much like a doctor-patient relationship and, in the long run, you will have a healthier vehicle.

Q) How do I choose the right spark plug?
A) There are several factors - such as thread reach, thread diameter, the insulator nose projection and whether the spark plug incorporates a gasket or is of the conical type - to consider when choosing the correct spark plug for your needs.
In most cases, it is not until the engine is modified, or the compression is raised significantly, that stock ignition systems and spark plugs begin to show signs of being inadequate. At this point, a variety of factors determine which spark plug will be best suited for a particular configuration. In these modified engines, specific electrode/tip combinations, electrode materials and colder heat ranges can provide measurable gains in power. If your vehicle has had extensive modifications, it would be best to seek the advice of the manufacturer of your vehicle, the aftermarket supplier who manufactured your modifications, or your mechanic.